Some time ago, I purchased a roller ball, inserted in a cylinder and having a screw for fixing it into the wood. I tought to a sharpening guide like Record 161, and today, finally, I decided to realize it.Construction is easy and requires little time.Necessary:
Two hardwood pieces cm 12x4 ca., one piece cm 10x4 ca., 1 cm thick.Two M5 or M6 brass coutersunk bolts and their wing nuts and washers.Bore together, onto half line, one 12 cm piece and the 10 cm piece, so to have a 8 cm distance between the holes. Countersink holes in the 12 cm piece.
The bolts are blocked by gluing the third piece.
When the glue is dry, the roller ball is screwed at center, under the guide. That is!This guide can hold skewed blade and, having only one point touching the surface, allows to sharpening cambered blades, like scrub plane blades.
For setting the wished angle it is useful to have a reference board, by which is possible to find the searched value simply laying the front of sharpening guide on the board edge.
Some time ago, I purchased a roller ball, inserted in a cylinder and having a screw for fixing it into the wood. I tought to a sharpening guide like Record 161, and today, finally, I decided to realize it. Construction is easy and requires little time. Necessary:
Two hardwood pieces cm 12x4 ca., one piece cm 10x4 ca., 1 cm thick. Two M5 or M6 brass coutersunk bolts and their wing nuts and washers.Bore together, onto half line, one 12 cm piece and the 10 cm piece, so to have a 8 cm distance between the holes. Countersink holes in the 12 cm piece.
The bolts are blocked by gluing the third piece. 
When the glue is dry, the roller ball is screwed at center, under the guide. That is! This guide can hold skewed blade and, having only one point touching the surface, allows to sharpening cambered blades, like scrub plane blades. 
For setting the wished angle it is useful to have a reference board, by which is possible to find the searched value simply laying the front of sharpening guide on the board edge.
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