The Stanley 113 is a plane for planing curved surfaces. It has a flexible sole, able to assume a concave or convex shape, with a variable radius regulated by turning a large knob. A toothed gear mechanism guarantees the correct sole movement. The #113 iron is identical to the Stanley #3 one, the size being 1 3 / 4 " (4.4 cm). The lever cap and the cap iron are different from those of #3, so you need pay attention to this detail when buying it. My # 113 was in good condition, just a lot of surface rust. I proceeded to disassemble the plane into its parts and treat them with a vinegar bath.The flexible sole should be dropped from the metal arms using a punch.The sole is welded to a dovetail shaped piece; it fits in the body plane. To take it apart I first lubricated with a descaler (WD40) and then gently hammered it using a punch of a suitable form (for the purpose I used a more little hammer, placing a smaller cardboard piece to protect from blows; alternatively you can use a wood piece of suitable form).If your sole does not want to move, better stop the action for avoiding damages to the cast iron parts, very difficult to repair! A common #113 defect is a mismatch between the iron seat and the mouth.The blade does not not rest properly and could create problems in planing (chattering). To solve this problem, I simply added a couple of shims (business cards are great) on the plane seat. The flexible sole should be free from rust. Use sandpaper attached to a flat surface, paying particular attention to the mouth area. The plane must be used with straight shots following the workpiece horizontal axis. It is also useful for the chamfer job.
The lever cap and the cap iron are different from those of #3, so you need pay attention to this detail when buying it. My # 113 was in good condition, just a lot of surface rust. I proceeded to disassemble the plane into its parts and treat them with a vinegar bath.The flexible sole should be dropped from the metal arms using a punch.
The sole is welded to a dovetail shaped piece; it fits in the body plane. To take it apart I first lubricated with a descaler (WD40) and then gently hammered it using a punch of a suitable form (for the purpose I used a more little hammer, placing a smaller cardboard piece 
to protect from blows; alternatively you can use a wood piece of suitable form). If your sole does not want to move, better stop the action for avoiding damages to the cast iron parts, very difficult to repair! A common #113 defect is a mismatch between the iron seat and the mouth.
The blade does not not rest properly and could create problems in planing (chattering). To solve this problem, I simply added a 
couple of shims (business cards are great) on the plane seat. The flexible sole should be free from rust. Use sandpaper attached to a flat surface, paying particular attention to the mouth area. The plane must be used with straight shots following the workpiece horizontal axis. It is also useful for the chamfer job. 
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